Before commercial yeast existed, Italians across the countryside relied on sourdough to bake their daily bread. Known as lievito madre or pasta madre, this natural leavening agent was passed down through generations and formed the heart of every home bakery. The tradition is deep, and still survives today in some rural areas.
Lievito madre refers to a stiff, naturally fermented dough culture made from just flour and water.
It was often kept at room temperature and fed as needed. Because it is lower in hydration, it ferments more slowly and stays stable longer — perfect for homes that only baked once a week or even once a month. These starters could be hundreds of years old, carried forward from mother to daughter, baker to baker.
In many parts of Italy, especially in the south, families would gather once a week or even monthly to bake bread in community wood-fired ovens. Each household would arrive with their dough, prepared at home using their family’s sourdough starter. The ovens were fired up and used to bake enough bread to last until the next communal bake. In regions like Calabria and Basilicata, this was not just tradition — it was survival.
In Apulia (Puglia), traditional breads like Pane di Laterza were made using durum wheat and sourdough starter. These loaves had deep color, long fermentation, and kept fresh for days without preservatives. In Ferrara, the well-known Coppia ferrarese — a twisted, crusty bread — also has its roots in natural leavening methods going back to the Middle Ages.
The shift toward commercial yeast didn’t happen because the bread was better. It happened because the bread was faster. Industrialization, urban living, and the demand for predictable, cheap food all played a role in replacing lievito madre with isolated commercial yeast. This yeast made bread rise quickly, with no need for long fermentation or knowledge of sourdough technique. But something important was lost.
Today, returning to sourdough is more than just reviving an old method. It’s a way of restoring integrity to our food and reconnecting with traditions that respected time, flavor, and nourishment. Whether you call it lievito madre, pasta madre, or just your starter, it’s a living thread that connects us to the bakers of old.
If you’re learning to bake sourdough with one of our courses, you’re not just picking up a skill — you’re stepping into a legacy that stretches back through the villages of Italy and far beyond.